Stone setting, for every jeweller, will be one of the more technical aspects to production. At CHD, we use three setting techniques; hammerset, bezel set and prong setting.
Hammersetting, is used for our small round faceted stones set flush into the surface of the ring. See the Rectangle Signet or Small Round Signet (hyperlinks for each). A stone seat will be burred in the ring, a small wall forged around the bed and once the stone is in place, the wall will be hammered over the girdle of the stone. Then cleaned up flush with the surface.
The bezel set is the predominant technique used in our designs such as the Cushion Rings, The Naked Oval, The Coin Rings and essentially any piece with a Cabochon stone (stone with a flat bottom and no facets). This process will include preparing the stone bed by burring an angled seat for the stone to slot into and will also provide a ‘weak point’ for the bezel wall to fold at.
The setting will then be cleaned up with a bright cut, which is done by an extremely square graver as it takes off a thin layer of silver to clean up any ripples on the surface from the setting.
Lastly, the prong setting - which is done for our Dual Snake and Dual Skull rings. In which the prongs are set onto the faceted stone like a claw, to hold in place. This is the classic setting techique mostly used for engagement style rings.